The road less travelled

Discover the Mitimiti vibe in Hokianga

The little seaside settlement of Mitimiti in Hokianga is not only at the literal end of the road, but the road itself is so out of the way that pretty much only locals use it.

They are the ones who know, and love, the treasure that lies there: the chance to live free and easy, using the outdoors for fun and food, and appreciating community.

Starting at Kohukohu, across Hokianga Harbour from Ra¯wene, it’s 45 minutes’ drive along the winding, mostly unsealed west coast road through farmland and forest.

You will pass through little Panguru, and see the 1930s Spanish Mission-style church Hato Kereti me Hato Remehio.

Finally, you will wind up at Mitimiti, a scattered collection of homes along this wild coast, anchored by Ma¯tihetihe Marae, unique in the country for containing a Catholic church, Hato Hemi (St James).

Why go?

Because though it’s out of the way, there are big connections there.

With art, for starters. In the urupa¯ (cemetery) on the hill with its coastal views, you will find the grave of local artist Ralph Hotere, simple but artistic, in the company of many wha¯nau.

Nearby is the unexpected sight of a red gateway, which commemorates the sinking in 1902 of the SS Ventnor, which was carrying 499 miners who had died during the Otago goldrush and were being taken home to China for burial.

Ma¯ori found them washed ashore, and took care of them.

More than a century later, the arch was erected by the Chinese in gratitude for the care and respect shown to their ancestors.

Insider tip

Look out for wandering horses, cows and pu¯ keko along the road.

Strong currents and boisterous waves don’t make for safe swimming, but there are rock pools and a stream for dipping in.

If you drive on the beach, watch the tide, and your speed. It’s officially a road, so there is a limit.

As you exit the gate of the cemetery, you should wash your hands in the water there. Don’t go on to the marae without an invitation.

On the way/nearby

You can drive 15km along the beach to the Rangi Point Sand Dunes at the Hokianga Harbour entrance to boogie board down to sea level, as well as marvelling at canyons and wind sculptures. You can get there too by boat service from O¯ pononi, where you will also find a memorial to the SS Ventnor at the innovative Manea Footprints of Kupe attraction.

Stop at Kohukohu for good coffee and refreshments, art, and striking residential and commemorative architecture. Wairere Boulders are well worth the detour for an enjoyable walk and some spectacular rocks.

How much?

Just the time and effort required to get there, which are amply rewarded. Though if you take the car ferry from Rawene, it’s $20 one way, plus $2 a passenger.

Best time to go

The breakers are spectacular in a westerly, but a relaxing sunny day will ease you into the Mitimiti vibe. hokianga.com.

Staying safe

New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions. Stay home and follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.