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Have yourself a merry roadie

Brook Sabin and Radha Engling

Take your bubble on the highway

With Auckland’s borders set to open next month, and confirmation that the whole country will enter the traffic light system, Kiwis are finally able to plan summer holidays with a little more certainty. Road trips are likely to surge in popularity, as groups can travel in their own bubble. So, if you’re thinking of hitting the road, here are four of the best adventures to try.

The lost world: Coromandel Town to Whitianga on the 309 Road

One of the most spectacular and scariest drives I have done was up into the Highlands of Papua New Guinea. It’s spectacular because the jungle is largely untouched and is a reminder of what the world looked like before humans arrived. But it’s scary because – to put it politely – that part of the world has a few baddies, who sometimes hijack cars.

Deep in the Coromandel, I felt like I was back in the wilderness of Papua New Guinea – except there, I felt safe.

Those of us lucky enough to have spent a summer in Coromandel know the winding coastal roads can be jammed with traffic. But there is a mysterious road that crosses the spiny backbone of Coromandel Peninsula that few people know about – and it’s an adventure.

It’s simply called 309 Road and it’s 21 kilometres of fascinating scenery that links Coromandel Town to Whitianga crossing the jungle-like hinterland of Coromandel Peninsula. Nobody I asked quite knows why it’s called ‘‘the 309’’. Some say it’s because it took 309 minutes to cross in a horse and cart in the old days. Others say it’s because it has 309 bends. I lost count.

If you’re coming from the Coromandel Town side, your first stop (if you like seafood) is Coromandel Mussel Kitchen, which serves fresh green-lipped mussels in a multitude of ways, such as fritters, burgers, platters, and chowder.

The next sight is one of the Coromandel’s most unusual attractions: dozens (if not hundreds) of pigs lazing next to the road.

Stu Edmondson, a 309 resident, who is unofficially known as the Pig Man, has raised hundreds of pigs over the years, and they enjoy their life beside the road, with drivers stopping to take photos and pat them.

It’s listed as ‘‘Stuart and the pigs’’ on Google Maps, but don’t worry, there is zero chance of missing it.

The next attraction is a fascinating ‘‘theme park with a difference’’. The Waterworks has more than 70 water-powered attractions, such as machine guns that run on water. It’s dog friendly, and has a cafe on site.

There is also the Waiau Falls Scenic Reserve and Egan Park, which is home to a popular summer swim spot.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay just off the road, Ahurewa Eco Retreat is a tiny container home at Mahakirau Forest Estate, which is a gated private eco-sanctuary home to some of the country’s rarest creatures.

Further towards the Whitianga side is Wairua Lodge, which has a series of hotel rooms tucked away in the bush. But the real beauty of this place is what’s outside your room – there is a treehouse bath, a star spa for watching the Milky Way.

The lodge also has an extensive series of walking tracks, with hammocks next to glistening water holes, which is heaven in summer.

Snow-covered jewel: Queenstown to Aoraki/Mt Cook

Picking the best road trip in the South Island is like picking a favourite child – choosing one is (almost) impossible. However, I will go out on a limb and say my favourite is the journey from Queenstown to Aoraki/Mt Cook.

It’s an iconic drive that captures the best of the Southern Alps from your window.

Start with a resort-style experience in Queenstown, then head up the stunning Crown Range switchback and venture past Cardrona to Wa¯ naka.

From there, make your way through the barren, beautiful Lindis Pass, before stopping at O¯ ma¯ rama to see the Mars-like Clay Cliffs.

Then make your way to the azure-coloured Lake Pu¯ kaki and finally on to Aoraki/Mt Cook.

In summer, you will still see snow on the mountains; a very Kiwi version of a white Christmas.

The sound of silence: Te A nau to Milford Sound

Before Covid-19, more than one million people were expected to experience Milford Sound each year, and we have only a limited time before the borders open and international tourists return.

If you have never driven to Milford Sound, do it now – we may never get the chance to see it empty again.

Half of the magnificence of Milford is experienced before you even get there. The two-hour drive from Te A¯ nau is the most scenic highway in the country.

There are plenty of hidden gems to discover along the way, such as the Lake Marian Track, which passes a thunderous waterfall to eventually reach a picturesque alpine lake tucked away in a hanging valley. There is also the popular Key Summit Track; a two-to-three-hour return trek that encompasses some of the Routeburn Track, and offers views of the ancient ice-carved valleys below.

My favourite part of the drive is reaching the Homer Tunnel, which disappears into the side of a mountain. On the other side, you reach a winding valley of waterfalls and, if it’s been raining, it feels like you’re driving through a snow-topped lunar landscape, gushing with water in every direction.

Wildlife highway: Invercargill to Dunedin

The Catlins is home to Jurassic forests, windswept white sandy beaches, sacred waterfalls, enormous seaside caves, eco retreats, and rare wildlife.

The coastal road north (or south if you do the trip in reverse) is very much a pick and mix – you choose the sights. However, don’t miss the short walk to Pu¯ ra¯ kaunui Falls, the region’s iconic three-tiered waterfall surrounded by lush native bush.

Cathedral Caves, among the longest in the world, is only accessed at low tide after a gentle 15-minute walk through the rainforest.

Nugget Point is the most iconic photo stop in The Catlins, and the short walk is worthy of the hype.

Don’t forget to look down. You will often see sea lions and seals basking on the rocks below. Surat and Cannibal bays are also a great option to see seals up close. However, always keep a distance.

Take a detour before reaching Dunedin to find one of the South Island’s best hidden gems. It’s called The Punt at Tuapeka Mouth, which at first glance looks like something you might find as part of a shonky river crossing in Cambodia.

It’s essentially two boats, joined together with a plank, which you drive your car onto to cross the river.

The well-worn appearance is due to age; the punt was installed in 1896 to connect a remote goldmining camp to the other side of the river. People, horses, cattle and sheep flocked to use it. A new model was installed in 1915. And it’s free to use.

Staying safe

New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions.

Stay home and follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.

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2021-11-21T08:00:00.0000000Z

2021-11-21T08:00:00.0000000Z

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