Natural wonders

The best of the Bay

Aglistening, freshly filled wine glass isn’t the only thing worth admiring in Hawke’s Bay. Between towering waterfalls, dramatic coastal cliffs and ancient mountains steeped in Ma¯ ori mythology, the East Coast region dishes up a range of stunning natural wonders.

Lake Waikaremoana

A three-hour drive from Napier in Te Urewera is the large and deep Lake Waikaremoana, the North Island’s fourth-largest body of water.

Ma¯ ori legend has it that the ‘‘sea of rippling waters’’ was created by a powerful taniwha who was trying to escape her father and reach the sea.

As mountains and gorges were pushed away, it formed Whanganui Inlet and lakebed. The area is also said to have been a hiding spot for Ma¯ ori leader Te Kooti.

An ancient petrified forest sits beneath the water’s surface, and the lake is surrounded by mountain ranges and one of the North Island’s largest untouched native forests.

The 46km one-way Lake Waikaremoana Track is one of New Zealand’s most remote Great Walks.

It’s a three- to four-day hike through valleys of bush and podocarp forest across boardwalks and bridges, following the southern and western coast of the lake.

However, the track and lake are currently closed to the public, and it is uncertain when it will reopen.

Cape Kidnappers/ Te Kauwae-a-Ma¯ui

Another spectacular site with historical significance is Cape Kidnappers/

Te Kauwae-a-Ma¯ ui.

According to Ma¯ ori tradition, the dramatic headland represents the hook that Ma¯ ui used to fish up the North Island/Te-Ika-a-Ma¯ ui.

The five million-year-old towering cliffs are a mix of sandstone, river gravel, petrified wood and fossilised bones and shells.

To really get an appreciation of their mighty stature, visitors can take the 19km walk along the beach. Sightseers should be prepared: it’s only accessible at low tide, and is subject to landslides.

The world’s largest and most accessible mainland gannet colony sits at the top of the 8km peninsula. Tours can be taken to see some of the 20,000 seabirds in their natural habitat, which gather from spring to build nests for the arrival of chicks.

There is also one of the world’s best golf courses, and luxury resort The Farm on the picturepostcard headland.

Maraetotara Falls

Just 15 minutes from Havelock North and 40 minutes from Napier, the Maraetotara Falls swimming hole is well known and loved by Hawke’s Bay locals, but a hidden gem for those new to the region.

To access the 15-metre tiered waterfall, it’s an easy 10-minute walk from the car park down wooden stairs and through native bush.

The large swimming hole is the perfect spot to cool off from the scorching summer, but be careful swimming directly below the falls.

Between swims, there is the kilometre-long Maraetotara Historic Walk to the heritage power station at the other end of the track.

Shine Falls

A trip to Shine Falls, Hawke’s Bay’s most spectacular waterfall, is another excellent way to spend a hot summer’s day. It sits an hour-anda-half north of Napier, and there’s a further hourlong walk through farmland, past limestone formations and native forest, to get to the falls. It’s worth the effort.

The thunderous 58-metre drop, nestled in dense bush, is a wondrous sight and particularly popular with locals.

On the drive home, stop at Waipatiki Beach, a golden stretch of sand with cliffs either side, for a cool-off and icecream.

Te Mata Peak

Te Mata Peak is considered to be the most significant natural landscape in Hawke’s Bay.

It has cultural importance to Ma¯ ori, with evidence of ancient pa¯ sites and settlement. Legend says the hill portrays the body of the Waima¯ rama chief, Te Mata, who died while trying to bite his way through the Earth.

The Te Mata Park Trust says early European settlers also thought the lofty mountain resembled a man lying down.

Today, you can walk, cycle or drive to the summit of the Sleeping Giant for sweeping 360-degree views across Hawke’s Bay and Heretaunga Plains, from Ma¯ hia to Cape Kidnappers.

On the way down Te Mata Peak, pop into The Redwoods forest, where you will find more than 200 Californian redwoods, the tallest tree species in the world.

Bell Rock

New Zealand’s own version of Pride Rock is deep in Hawke’s Bay. It’s called Bell Rock Loop Track, and there is a bit of effort for your reward.

First, there is an hour’s drive north of Napier. Then, a three-hour loop track through lush native bush and across the rolling hills on the Maungaharuru Range.

At the top, you will find a series of enormous alien-like rocks clinging to the side of a cliff, overlooking the vast hinterland below.

The rocks are open to walk on to have your The Lion King ‘‘Rafiki’’ moment high above the Pride Lands, but common sense is important.

DOC says ‘‘extreme care’’ is required, and children must be supervised at all times.

Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Ta¯ne

The Bay of Plenty-Hawke’s Bay border cuts through the middle of this prehistoric rainforest.

The conservation park, often called a ‘‘dinosaur park’’ for its ancient species of rimu, to¯ tara, kahikatea, mataı¯ and miro, stretches for more than 60,000 hectares.

Some of New Zealand’s rarest native birds live there too, including brown kiwi, ka¯ ka¯ riki, ka¯ ka¯ and ka¯ rearea.

It features a variety of short and multi-day walks for avid trampers.

The Arohaki Lagoon Track is a popular 6km (three-hour) option to a platform looking over the rain-fed lagoon surrounded by kahikatea.

For advanced hikers, the three-day Mangamate Loop Track covers a range of terrain, including river crossings, through the majestic podocarp forest.

Mo¯ rere Hot Springs

This hot spring escape is found on the Pacific Coast Highway between Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, set in 364ha of rainforest.

What makes this place remarkable, and rare, is its water. What bubbles up is ancient seawater, 250,000 litres a day, which makes its way to the surface through a fault line. It is then cooled and pumped into the pools.

Some days the water is hotter than on others. In 2019, staff noticed the pools all increased in temperature in the days leading up to the Whakaari/White Island eruption, which is something experts have taken a keen interest in.

Entry to the pools is $14, and for $4 extra, you can book a 30-minute soak session in a private pool overlooking the nı¯kau forest.

Staying safe

New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions.

Stay home and follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.