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Sandy beaches and sapphire bays

Nelson Lakes may be one of the country’s lesser known national parks, but the plethora of accessible tramping tracks, great huts and spectacular views means it punches above its weight, writes Becky Carruthers.

Although the top of the South Island is mainly known for its perfect sandy beaches and hidden sapphire bays, one of the real gems of the area lies inland. An hour’s drive south of Nelson and Blenheim is Nelson Lakes National Park, an easily accessible escape with tramping tracks for all ages and skill levels.

Whether you are passing through on a day trip, enjoying a weekend away, or you have a full week to spare, here are our picks for what to see and do in Nelson Lakes National Park.

Where to start

The jumping off point for all Nelson Lakes excursions is St Arnaud, a village at the foot of Lake Rotoiti.

There you will find a petrol station, a small store for last-minute supplies (including sunscreen and insect repellent, which you will definitely need), a cafe, and accommodation.

The DOC centre is just off the main road towards the lake, and is a must-visit if you are heading out on an overnight hike.

The wall-sized maps and pocket-sized brochures are great to show kids to help them see where you are going, and the staff are knowledgeable about route conditions, weather, and any necessary warnings.

You can also purchase hut tickets there.

Daytrippers

If you are just passing through, then there are plenty of day walks around the St Arnaud/Lake Rotoiti area.

You will need to be prepared with sunscreen, insect repellent, water, food, and warm/windproof layers.

Although most day-trippers head up Mt Robert, the mountain facing St Arnaud, the better views are enjoyed from Parachute Rocks, to the east of the village.

The walk starts gradually through native forest, before climbing gradually steeper switchbacks, and eventually emerging above the treeline at Parachute Rocks, named for their shape.

The rocks are a perfect picnic spot with epic views across Lake Rotoiti, up Travers Valley, and along the Mt Robert ridgeline.

From there, keen hikers can continue up the track to reach the St Arnaud ridgeline at 1650 metres, and enjoy expansive views of Marlborough, Nelson and Tasman.

The round trip takes 3-5 hours, depending on your fitness level and how long you picnic at the top.

When you come back down, wash off the sweat with a leap into the lake – it’s refreshingly cold, but mind the eels that live under the wharf.

For small children, the relatively flat, one-hour Brunner Peninsula Walk, and 45-minute Honeydew Walk give a good introduction to the park and native species

Keep your eyes peeled for ka¯ ka¯ , robins, tomtits,

and fantails, and the more abundant bellbirds and tu¯ ı¯.

Long weekend

The most popular destination in the national park is undoubtedly Rotomaninitua/Lake Angelus, an alpine tarn set amid towering mountains in the heart of the park.

At 1650m altitude and a full day’s walk into the park, Angelus is not for the unprepared. There are three routes to reach it, each with their own perks and challenges.

Robert Ridge Route: 12.2km, 6 hours from car park to hut

This route is only advisable in good weather, as cloud or wind can severely limit visibility and make the ridge unsafe. In fine weather it is unbeatable.

Enjoy endless views east and west as you navigate the gradually narrowing ridgeline from the soft Mt Robert towards the craggy and grand Maniniaro/ Angelus Peak itself.

This route can also be broken up into two days with a night at Bushline Hut along the way.

Speargrass Creek Route: 11.2km, 6 hours from car park to hut

Also starting from Mt Robert car park, this is the favoured option in cloudy or windy weather since it’s mainly under tree cover until the final two hours’ ascent to the hut.

It’s perfect for bird lovers, but does include river crossings that can be treacherous after heavy rain.

This route can be broken up with a stay at Speargrass Hut along the way.

Cascade Route: 9.4km, 6 hours from car park to hut

Approaching Angelus from Travers Valley, this route begins with a couple of hours’ easy lakeside walk or a water taxi to Coldwater Hut.

From there, the track remains relatively flat until the final, very steep climb beside Hukere Stream to reach Angelus Hut.

Lake Angelus has a 28-bed hut with basic amenities (long drop toilet, running water, mattresses, tables, and benches), overseen by a hut warden who is on hand to check hut tickets, give advice, and ensure safety procedures are followed.

You will need to bring your own food, cooking equipment, and warm layers in case the weather turns suddenly – a hailstorm in summer isn’t unusual in the mountains.

Its popularity means that bookings are essential, and the hut often books out weeks in advance for busy periods.

Whether you take two days to get there or just the one, allow time at Lake Angelus to explore the area, take in the sunrise and, if you are fit and keen, climb to the top of Maniniaro/Angelus Peak (2075m).

A whole week

A full week in Nelson Lakes National Park – you lucky person! While you could spend your days relaxing by the lake in one of the DOC campsites, taking daily dips and pottering about the shorter hikes, if you really want to experience the park, you need to get off-grid and onto the Travers-Sabine Circuit.

This track takes you from Lake Rotoiti up Travers Valley, across Travers Saddle (1787m), and down Sabine Valley to Lake Rotoroa. Although most

people take it clockwise so they have a smaller ascent on the day they cross the saddle, I recommend doing it the other way round.

The longer ascent may be tiring, but it is easier on your knees, and reduces the risk of slipping if the weather is poor.

An even better piece of advice to make this trip special: take an extra day to visit Blue Lake, the clearest freshwater in the world.

There is a 16-bunk hut at Blue Lake or it is visitable on a 5-hour round trip from West Sabine Hut. Although the lake is small, the colour and clarity of the water is breathtaking. Please help keep it that way by not washing yourself, clothing or dishes in the lake.

The regular loop can take 4-7 days depending how far you want to walk each day and how many stops you make. Most huts are 3-5 hours apart, meaning you can easily walk short days and take a full week, or walk longer days and take rest days in between.

The Travers-Sabine loop is a great expedition for fit families who want it all: water-based fun, forest walking, alpine tramping, and half a dozen huts to bag. You will need backcountry hut tickets or passes, which can be bought from DOC.

In summer, hut wardens walk the loop to provide advice, weather forecasts and safety information. As this is a backcountry route, you will need to bring your own food, and adequate gear and clothing.

At either end of the loop, you can save a few hours’ walk by taking a water taxi across Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotoroa. These need to be booked in advance from Rotoiti Water Taxis and Lake Rotoroa Water Taxi.

After a week in the mountains you probably need a hot shower, so book into the Kerr Bay Campsite, Alpine Lodge, or a local bach to wash up and rest before heading off home.

Staying safe:

New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions.

Face coverings are mandatory on all flights and public transport. Proof of vaccination is required to enter DOC visitor centres and to use DOC accommodation. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.

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2022-01-23T08:00:00.0000000Z

2022-01-23T08:00:00.0000000Z

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